Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Tubing in Vang Vieng, Laos: A Grimey Cinderella Story

**warning: long blog
Eerie image of Lara's muddy hand or foreshadowing of a desperate reach for help?

Now that I've captured more interest, I'm going to describe this infamous tubing experience we had last week that's unforgettably unique to any activity that involves a release of inhibition in my book. I've mentioned before that Selena and Martin did some prefacing on this dissipation that involves a high safety risk and in agreement, we thought, 'ALRIGHT WE'RE IN!' Hey, when in Laos, right?... right.

Easily influenced and enthusiastic, we prepared for the day by consuming some carbs to soak in the pollution imminently invading our temples then headed to the tubing headquarters across the way from the FRIENDS restaurant. Lara and I met a few travelers behind us in line, befriended them and eventually asked if we could join their tubing group as pair tubers were required to pay a higher fee. We conversed a bit with them and learned that they are in fact, experienced 2nd time tubers! Great, people who know what's going on. Yeah, right. Little did we know, we would soon be a lonesome duo lurking in the dark night of Laos.

A tuk-tuk awaits us after we get numbered like cattle, pay our admission, grab a life vest to ensure survival through this river adventure [and a mentioned monetary penalty if lost is adamantly communicated] and sign away our lives on half a sheet of paper eloquently stating, 'I (or relative) will not sue the tubing company if I get injured or die'.

10 minutes later, we reached our destination and found ourselves unloading the tuk-tuk. We are greeted by one of two travel guides with a shot of whiskey in bottle to the dome and I immediately felt my blood rush in excitement. Travel guide number 2, Trent whom I've been told was a former traveler had been invited to work for the tubing company because he was found to be a valuable asset with his frequent experiences tubing and exceptional social skills informs us the route. Westerner to westerner, that type deal. Printed in dark marker along his chest is a number that indicated his days working along the river and if I remember correctly, it was a 3 digit number.



Bar #1. Electro music was blasting, people were zip lining a distance away from us, barely clad foreigners sunbathing and collectively enjoying each other's company with the assistance of liquid courage. Lara and I decided to start off slow, for the sake of memory and safety. I guess the thing in Vang Vieng is buckets with a mix of alcohol, something resembling a Tokyo tea, Long Island, and an Adios concoction. I despise it's deceiving trade off, but secretly I do enjoy the taste to mask the feeling of burning in your mouth. We decided to venture off into the river with bottoms in tube and we float onto the next bar.

The tubing adventure follows a simple procedure:
  1. Float in tubes along the river to nearby bars
  2. An empty water bottle tied to a long line of rope is thrown at river occupants
  3. Grab hold of rope if desired to attend bar
  4. Bar attendant pulls in river occupants
  5. Grab free shots of whiskey at bar [various bars also offer free bananas to offset immediate distaste of misery when alcohol is consumed]
  6. Drink
  7. If desired, drink some more
  8. Have funnnn & go crazy [the former is must, the latter however is beyond control at a specific point]
Lara and I continued these few steps a few more bars down. I won't go into detail about everything because quite honestly, I'm not even sure if I could recollect everything. I will, however, fast forward to some highlights (both good and bad) of our adventure that I could not for the life of me forget.

Somewhere between bar #2 or #3, one of those, I managed to build up the courage to go zip lining after a few of our friends did it!!! It seems as though bravery and the slightest suggestion of peer-pressure are quite complimentary and entirely responsible for actions. I am a firm believer, alcohol makes you brave. I would have never done this sober; I can't even swim well! Disgustingly, I found myself with a mouthful of dingy river water making its way into my tummy afterwards. Gross.



Later, we make our way to another bar where a light game of mud volleyball ensued. I shook off the apprehension of getting THAT dirty, but managed to find myself reaching a little too far for the volleyball and into a mud pit where I soon would be taken down by a bearded man and awaking to see a frightening image of a man who resembles Predator from Alien vs. Predator. This guy was literally painted in mud, I could only see the pinks of his eyelids, the whites of his eyes and his teeth peeking through this suit of mud. 0__0. Yikes.

Going in!

So about this game.

I lose my life vest sometime during this mud fest and escape to the next bar. Subsequent bars later, we connect with new people, creating a faint relationship based on these unique moments dedicated to release of inhibitions, and happily toast to being alive and well together.

Everything from this point on takes a complete dismal turn. After leaving the last bar, (who knows what number it is) Lara and I depart for the river accompanied by two English guys. I remember us comparing our cultures and laughing about our manners of speech, light matters. Adam, who 'reckoned' he had chlamydia in his eye was the talkative of the two. He had a charm to him up until the moment he used the N word and attempted to raise his self-esteem by affirming the size of his package to us. People are so interesting, really.

After the two disconnect from us, it began to rain a bit. Dismal clouds formed above us and lightening illuminated patches of the sky. At this point, I wasn't concerned about how dark it was getting solely because I might have been in the dark myself? Hah. It was relaxing to just float along the river and observe the inconsistencies above me... up until it began to get dark.

A sign of rescue came when a water bottle tied to a rope flew past us. (At the beginning of this river escapade we were informed when the end would be, but at the state we were in... really now, who was keeping track of time?) A familiar bar attendant from an earlier bar came swimming towards us and pulled us towards the river bank. We figured this might have been the blatant sign of the end when this guy came rushing towards us. His message however was not made clear to us. After getting out of the water he insists we pay him for his good deed and I refuse by lying that we didn't have enough money because it would not be enough for a tuk-tuk at the end... and plus, we didn't ask you to save us! Infuriated, he throws my tube back into the river leaving us no other choice than to retrieving them. Now remember, I don't have my life-jacket and not a strong swimmer at all so you can imagine the thoughts going through my head. Lara bravely runs after our tubes and grabs hold of both of them and screams that I need to jump onto mine before she's carried away by the current. I close my eyes and fall back and luckily touch the tubes a few feet away from the river bank. That was a pretty intense moment for me after such an unpleasant interaction with the bar attendant.

Moments later, the current carries us to the opposite end of the river and we're lined parallel to the river bank, faced backwards, where we were rushed through bushes and surprised with various sharp shrubbery scratching against our legs, feet and backs. I didn't see any of this coming. And to add to this misfortune, my favorite slippers would soon become lost pairs. One of my slippers was carried away due to a protruding branch that was stuck underneath the strap. >__< Surprisingly, we remained calm and focused on one goal only: Get the hell out of this river! At this point, it's quite dark and to add to this drama... still raining. An illusion of hope, we see lights beaming in the distance proving that life exists along the river. We row over to the opposite side of the bank again feeling relieved to see restaurants and houses and get out of the water. No luck. There was no exit. Numb to any pain, I seriously fail at coming out of this thing unscathed by scrapping my knee against more water shrubbery. Back on the tube we go again and float for another 5 minutes. If you could just imagine yourself for a second floating in complete darkness, feeling the absolute stillness of the night and echos of crickets and insects buzzing around you. You. Alone. (or with one other person) Not entirely sober, either. I think a long awaited freak-out mode would go into effect, like NOW!

Luckily, it wasn't long until another sign of hope for escape was sent to us. It came after floating passed a bridge when a man sitting at the end of the bridge yelled to us a relieving Boyz II Men song title "End of the road!". With quick reflexes, we row to the end of the river bank... again, grab hold of branches and roots to pull us out of this miserable but later comedic experience, dash across the bridge with my one slipper and bare foot pressed against the discomforting earth and all its various trail mixes beneath me and made our way across to ask the man where we could get a tuk-tuk. He says about a kilometer away and points to the distance where faint lights align a dirt road which hopefully will guide us to civilization? We walk on and find a man on a motorcycle and a house where a freshly started ignition belonging to a minivan carrying 3 Thai tourists waited. We ask the guy on the motorcycle how much would it cost to get back home and he replies with an extorted amount. Extremely exasperated by this exploitation, we decide not to haggle and immediately run towards the mini-van to see if this stranger would be so kind enough to take two lost, scared, exhausted, half-naked somewhat muddy and drenched girls under his wing to safety. Lara knocks on his window with hope and says "Vang Vieng?" and at that moment, he gets out of his seat, unlocks the back, opens the trunk and takes us in! And he takes along the huge tubes we've been carrying along with us.

Thank you mini-van driver, seriously.

The end was in fact near, we eventually get back to our guest house that was less than a 5 minute drive away and walk over to the tubing headquarters to drop off our tubes to collect the deposit amount of 500 Baht. Too bad that wasn't ours for very long because I did not have my life jacket with me and we paid the scornful fee of losing one. This day was full of madness and debauchery with a huge dose of gratitude. I honestly would not trade this experience for anything despite the chaos we were dealing with throughout our river adventure. Again, lemme say that alcohol makes you brave. Reflecting upon dreadful moments like this make me think about the 'what if's' and I tend to create more wars inside my head about near death experiences. Neurotic thoughts and what not.

Anyway, hopefully I'll have more adventures to share with you all, ones that don't involve the fear of losing safety and my dear life...
Cause yanno, I kinda like being alive.

Monday, October 26, 2009

Laos Recap!

We're back...ah and alive, more importantly!



The past week has been full of all sorts of adventure for the both of us. It was somewhat a vacation from our vacation... but for some reason it felt a little more draining than our former vacay. It must have been the constant movement of packing and unpacking of our belongings and the mentality of actual vagabonding where nothing is absolutely permanent.

As mentioned, our initial intentions to head across the river to Laos was to apply for a Thai visa that would grant us an extension to stay for another 3 months and to explore a little bit of Laos. CHECK & CHECK. The latter, however lead to a little more craziness than anticipated (in one city), but I will post another blog dedicated to that city for the sake of this recap. We stayed in Laos from the 20th till the 27th, made our way through 3 cities: Vien Tienne, Vang Vieng, and Luang Prabang, all with their own unique energy to them. I'll spend a little bit of time describing our adventures through these cities right now.

Vien Tienne
The capital of Laos, Vien Tienne is the entrance way travelers use to get through to Thailand. As with many capitals, several embassies are established here to aid fellow travelers with anything they might need to make their stay in a foreign country comfortable. We spent only a total of 2 days here and majority of it was handling visa business. Unfortunately, Lara and I never had a chance to explore this city besides our first day there to the bus station to head to Vang Vieng and on our last night there in search of street food (ugh, the one that gave me really bad heartburn and a stomach ache. Mai ped on the Pad Thai, please! That meant not spicy). From Ming's pictures of her exploration of Vien Tienne, it seems like a beautiful place. Perhaps one day, I'll give this place a proper exploration.

Vang Vieng

Arrival

Absolute heathenism, debauchery, and release of inhibition at it's darkest and finest. Lara and I stayed here the first two nights of our trip, making our way 3 hours from Vien Tienne. I'm somewhat speechless when finding adequate words to express how I genuinely felt about this place, but am left with the thoughts, 'one time is definitely good enough for me'. I won't write too much about this place in this post since a full on action update of our infamous tubing experience is underway, and believe me... it is an experience I have never had before.

Vang Vieng is somewhat of a spring break type of getaway, but a SE Asia version. Imagine waves of westerners in bathing suits and summer wear populating a small Laos town (mainly 4 blocks) where everyone is completely obliterated and submitted to the effects of alcohol causing rambunctious outbursts in the middle of the night and meathead-like tendencies. Imagine a lush lifestyle where drunken stupors lead travelers disoriented and waking in the morning, confused as to "what in the hell was in that drink I had last night" in the middle of restaurants after a very heavy night of consumption. Imagine an adventure point where caving, kayaking, and hiking out into the nearby mountains and river is spent in leisure. Imagine a place where restaurants' floor plans consist of raised seating with cushions available for reclining and enjoying the DVD set of FRIENDS, possibly Season 1-10 playing through and through. And, imagine a place that knows no boundaries in cases of safety precautions and poison distribution (take your pick, if you know what I mean...) That, my friends is Vang Vieng. I'm sure I haven't given this town the proper introduction sans tourist influence, but with my brief exposure to this place, this is all I can entirely vouch for. It was absolute madness. But, OMFG did I have fun.


The restaurant that played FRIENDS all day


One of many massage parlors. Do not ask if they have happy endings here.


Luang Prabang

A polar opposite to the above mentioned city in Laos. Luang Prabang was certainly a favorite due to the civility and tranquility this city had. Perhaps after experiencing Vang Vieng, I then realized the beauty in stillness again and sobriety, for that matter. Among other things, Luang Prabang charmed travelers, like me with their breath-taking scenery, beautiful waterfalls, gorgeous temples and lovely night markets and restaurants. Lara and I stayed here for a total of 3 nights. It was a place for R&R (and this is definitely not a euphemism for a detoxification, haha). I had a chance to visit a book store where I paid to check out a book. I finally got to finish Siddhartha, a book by Herman Hesse that I've meaning to finish reading for quite some time now at the Phousi Stupa temple while overlooking the sun setting on the Meekong. A quote spoke to me while I was reading it, words that somewhat affirmed to silence my thoughts more along this experience and allowing myself to accept inevitable changes that have been occurring in my life recently, but I'll share that later with you all.


Night market


Kuangsi Waterfalls

Sculptures at the Vat

In practice of our frugality we settled for the cheapest possible forms of transportation. The 10 hour rides in large and or small vehicles were painstakingly winding and hella boring! I swear, it's probably the longest time I didn't speak to Lara... maybe it was because we were trying to avoid the negativity of having to endure such a long ride to places. Amidst the constant motion sickness throughout our bus rides ending in passengers vomiting and dry heaving, I kind of enjoyed seeing the changes in terrain despite our bus' soundtrack. These bus rides took us through the mountains of Laos covered in forest/jungles where I saw a plethora of beautiful flowers, various livestock crossing the roads, random children lurking about on the side of the roads, remote villages in the distance, farmers tending to their lands and every so often experiencing road block due to wild animals steering away from their paths and into our road.

20 year old bus that lived up to it's age. The stench of this bus reeked of rusted metal and musk...the best fragrance to inhale for 4 hours....-___-

Check out our bus! Great mural of elephants bathing and several lotuses.

A few things that I have learned throughout this trip:
  • Do not lose a life-jacket [from Vang Vieng]
  • Reggae music is the most relaxing to listen to while on vacay
  • Laos sandwiches bought from street vendors are the best, especially with EGG
  • Creepers come in all sizes and shapes. Do not "Sa bai dee" me, Phelang.
  • Patience makes you healthier (as experienced when Lara and I walked several flights of stairs up to the temple with over 300 steps)
  • Beer relaxes you and hard alcohol makes you brave
  • Bus rides make you miserable and numb
  • Guest Houses we stayed at have the worst measurements in stair architecture, some too steep, some too close from one another, and some too restricting... god, am I Goldilocks or what?
  • "you want a bag? or a ...."
  • Hmong village children love candy and sweets (as experienced while visiting the village on the way back from Luang Prabang when ravenous children took one of our bus rider's candy)
  • Fellow travelers are very helpful and friendly (i.e. getting dropped off in the middle of no when when arriving to Vang Vieng and asking some Americans where to go... luckily they had their Lonely Planets to guide them...a video will be provided!)
  • Camoflaging as Thai or Lao people is still distinguishable despite our skin tones. We've tried this many times by speaking in their tongue through various inquiries such as "taorai gee baht?" (how much Kip in Baht?)
  • Patience again while waiting for our Visas
I'm sure I've missed more details about this trip, I'll add on when some thoughts cross me later. Videos will be provided shortly!

Photos from my Flickr

Monday, October 19, 2009

Bag Lady: Packing light for Laos!

Tomorrow, Lara and I will be leaving for a few days to handle some visa business along with a mix of pleasure at a few touristy destinations in Laos (Viene Tienne, Luang Prabang and Vang Vienne). We're especially excited because this is seriously the first time we're actually leaving to unknown territory without guidance from any outside sources [i.e. Ming & Kirk]. I usually get neurotic and weary about exploring without appropriately preparing myself about remote destinations through extensive research, but Lara grounds me by reminding me that, "thousands of travelers do it everyday, we can too!" and she often reminds me that our friend Josh has managed to survive SE Asia by himself-- we can too! Additionally... and thankfully, both Kirk and Ming prefaced us with information dealing with logistics at the Thai Embassy, efficient Laotian words that will aid in getting us around and potential scams that might come our way. It was kind of funny too because Kirk drew us this drawing. If you see long arrows, that's our queue to run away from tuk-tuk drivers and scammers. Thanks, Kirk and Ming! We'll be back soon. So yanno... meet us at the Thai border! Also, during this crash course we saw a huge moth outside our door. We also saw a monstrous butterfly earlier in the day, but I didn't get a chance to take a picture of it.


Kirk's diagram on how to get a Thai visa when in Laos. Haha.


Massive!

Since the duration of our stay in Laos will be short, we're packing extra light. I'm bringing the following:

  • Bottoms: 2 pairs of shorts (1 for outdoors & 1 for bed)
  • Tops: 1 long tank top, 1 V-neck tee, Daily Breads shirt and 1 undershirt
  • Bandana to wipe off the profuse sweat from my body...gah
  • 1 bathing suit I've recently purchased for $6 (one that I wouldn't mind getting dirty from the mud wrestling in Vang Vienne)
  • 1 Tek towel
  • 1 Sleep sack, since I've heard that some guesthouses do not provide sheets


  • Toiletries and such
  • Medication: Dramamine for the long hour tour guide drive back from Luang Prabang, T(hai)lenol (in red) for potential hang overs from Vang Vienne and Airborne


  • Sunnies from H & M
  • Passport, credit card, passport photos for the visa we are applying for
  • Wallet from Nihon =)
  • Red leather bound journal
  • Small notebooks
  • Halloway stickers to stick up in Laos


And there you have it!

We'll be back soon and legally to stay in this country for a few more months! Haha. See yah.